Field Fence Installation: Tensioning and Post Spacing Guide
Good field fence installation is less about strength than about sequence: correct post spacing, posts driven to the right depth, wire pulled in stages and fastened so it cannot creep. Woven wire field fence is one of the most cost-effective barriers for cattle, sheep and horses, but a badly installed roll will sag within weeks and cost far more in repairs than the fence itself. This guide walks through a practical field fence installation on a farm boundary or paddock, from layout and post spacing to tensioning and fastening to studded T posts.
Before You Start: Tools and Layout
Mark the fence line with pegs and a string line, and check the run for straightness, changes in ground level and existing obstructions. A field fence follows the ground; it should not be forced into straight segments that leave gaps underneath. You will need a post driver, a stretcher or tensioning bar, wire cutters, a clip tool, and enough posts to put one every 8 to 12 feet on straight runs. Confirm the wire roll length matches the run, and plan gate openings before any posts are driven.
Post Spacing for Field Fence
Standard Spacing on Straight Runs
For woven wire field fence, 8 to 10 feet between posts is normal on straight ground; 12 feet is acceptable on firm, level soil with well-driven posts. Closer spacing - 8 feet - is the safer choice on soft ground, on slopes, and where animals push against the fence, because each post carries less wire load.
Corners, Ends and Braces
End posts and corner posts take the full tension of the run and need to be larger and set deeper, with a diagonal brace or a double-braced H-frame behind them. On long runs, add a brace post every 100 to 150 feet, or wherever the line changes direction. A corner post without a brace will lean as soon as the wire is tensioned - a very common installation failure.
Setting the Posts
Drive posts to roughly one third of their length below ground, and keep the studs facing the wire side. Check plumb with a level every few posts rather than at the end of the run. On rocky ground, pre-drill a pilot hole instead of hammering a bent post into place. If you are using galvanized steel T posts, one 1.5 lb post per 8 to 10 feet is the usual specification for stock fence; heavier 2.04 kg posts suit corners and high-pressure lines.
How to Tension Woven Wire
Pull in Stages
Tension the roll in two or three passes rather than one hard pull. A first pass removes slack and lets the wire settle against the posts; a second pass brings it to working tension. This staged approach prevents the mesh from distorting and keeps the vertical wires evenly spaced.
Keep the Wire on the Ground Line
Field fence is designed to sit close to the ground so animals cannot push their noses under it. Run the bottom wire just above soil level and follow the ground contour rather than a straight horizontal line across hollows.
Avoid Over-Tensioning
Woven wire should be firm, not drum-tight. Over-tensioning pulls the mesh out of shape, bows posts and makes the fence brittle at the fastening points. If the wire starts to flatten or the verticals compress, release a little tension before fastening.
Fastening Field Fence to Posts
Fasten the wire to each post at every vertical wire that meets a post, using wire clips on studded T posts or galvanized staples on wooden posts. On T posts, snap the clip over the stud so the wire cannot slide; on timber, drive staples at a slight angle, not fully home, so the wire can still move slightly with temperature changes. Tie the end of the run to the end post with a proper tie-off, then walk the line and check every fastening by hand.
Gates, Corners and Uneven Ground
Frame gate openings with a braced post on each side and keep the gate clear of the wire line. At corners, pull each run separately and fasten it before starting the next direction - trying to tension two directions at once distorts the mesh. On uneven ground, step the fence down in short sections rather than letting the wire bridge hollows, and add posts at the crests where tension concentrates.
Common Installation Mistakes
The usual failures are unbraced corner posts, posts spaced too far apart on soft ground, wire fastened before final tensioning, and gaps left under the mesh in hollows. Another frequent problem is using a light T post on a corner, which bends under load. Finally, tying off with knots instead of proper ties or clips lets the wire creep along the line and slackens the whole run.
Ordering Field Fence and Posts Together
When specifying a fence package, give the roll length and height, mesh and wire gauge, the post type and weight, and the number of gates. Ordering posts, wire and clips in one shipment keeps specifications matched and reduces freight cost. View our woven wire field fence, the 1.5 lb galvanized T post, and the fence product range.
FAQ About Field Fence Installation
Q: What is the best post spacing for field fence?
8 to 10 feet on straight runs is standard; use 8 feet on soft ground, slopes and high-pressure lines, and shorter spacing plus braces at corners.
Q: How deep should fence posts be driven?
About one third of the post length below ground. Corner and end posts should go deeper and be braced.
Q: Can field fence be installed without a tensioner?
A proper stretcher or tensioning bar is worth renting or buying: hand pulling rarely reaches even tension and usually leaves the mesh distorted.
Q: How do I keep animals from digging under the fence?
Keep the bottom wire close to soil level, follow the ground contour, and add a line of clips or a second bottom wire in hollows where pressure is highest.
Q: Can I order a complete fence package?
Yes. Send your run length, fence height, mesh and gauge, post type and quantity to Dutai. WhatsApp / Mobile: +86 158 0311 4155 | Email: sales@cndutai.com or info@studdedtpost.com. Address: Anping City, Hengshui City, Hebei Province, China.